I have been living with surfers now.It’s a weird thing. Especially compared with the way I was living my life before. All they know is to live life to the fullest, whereas in my case before, I was living life just for the sake of it. I was taking ot for granted. Too much so […]

I got to meet some of the more experienced surfers. Man, am I in awe of them! They seem larger than life, when they get on their surfboards! I wish I could be like them soon. I’ll be hanging out with them for awhile, maybe I can pick up some tricks and techniques right?
I asked […]